Photography Equipment and Gear
Photography, by its very nature is dependent on equipment. Over the past 22 years as a professional nature, wildlife and travel photographer, I've owned or used tons of products. Some of my past photo backpacks and lenses almost required a sherpa to carry them. And, I still own lots of cameras, photo lenses, filters and tripods. But several years ago I started taking less and less into the field when I go. Traveling light is liberating. Here are some of the items I use and recommend.
Canon 5D Mark IV Body - One of the best cameras I've ever owned and I use it for most of my landscape and travel nature photography needs. For me it fits my hands perfectly and I love the weight and heft of this body. I use it for my landscape, low-light and travel type photography. It produces wonderful images which can be cropped (if needed) quite a bit yet still maintain high quality. Good even up to ISO 6400. For fast action however, I felt that something was missing in the autofocus of this camera and thus I purchased the next item on this list. These days I don't think that just 1 camera system can do EVERYTHING I want it to do and I now have 2 systems.
Sony A9II Camera Body - Hands-down THE BEST fast action camera I've ever had the pleasure to own and use. This thing rocks when it comes to birds in flight (BIF), fast action, moving subjects and quick wildlife of any type. Don't believe me? CLICK HERE to see a recent gallery of kick-ass action shots. This Sony camera can shoot at 20 frames per second (FPS) and when following fast action almost EVERY SHOT will be sharp! For me, as a professional photographer who loves chasing the action this thing is a beast and a super fun tool to use in the field. Love, love, love it!
Sony a6600 Mirrorless Camera Body - An APS-C sensor-size camera. Great for high-action photography. 11 frames per second and incredibly fast and accurate autofocus which almost keeps up with the Sony A9II. I am currently using either this camera or the A9II and the Sony 200-600mm lens for ALL of my wildlife photography. Gallery of fast-action images HERE. Gallery of static images HERE. This camera is smaller and less comfortable in my hands than DSLR's and I have to grip it differently from how I grip my DSLR cameras. All Sony cameras are very customizable but no more difficult to set up once you get into it than any other camera. High ISO (above 1000) images have quite a bit of noise but this can always be dealt with in post processing.
Canon 6D Body - My first foray into full-frame cameras, which I purchased in 2014 after using 3 generations of Canon 'cropped sensor' bodies. Don't know what took me so long to try a full-frame camera. The difference between APS-C and full-frame is significant. Low light and cropping ability is outstanding. A nice back-up travel and scenery camera for me, though overall it's very slow for wildlife shooting, and of course you lose the extended reach of the crop sensor (i.e. a 150-600mm lens gives the equivalent of 225-900mm when used on a crop sensor camera body).
Oben CT-2391 Tripod - Lightweight carbon fiber yet super strong. Tall enough for my 6'4" height. Has EVERY feature a pro needs and nothing more. Great tripod. Update late 2017- has been replaced with CT-2491 (4 leg sections instead of 3).
Mefoto Roadtrip Aluminum Tripod - For when I travel overseas and need something smaller than my Oben. Adequate but not overly sturdy or tall. Decent for holding smaller lenses. I take off the ballhead that this tripod comes with and put on my LeoPhoto LH-40 ballhead (see below).
Really Right Stuff BH-40 Ball Head - The best that money can buy. Under a pound in weight yet super strong. Holds even my largest wildlife lens. I got mine with the screw-knob because I think the lever-knob could eventually become one point of weakness.
LEOFOTO LH-40 Ball Head - This is a great alternative to the RRS ball head listed above, but at less than half the price. I've used mine on my travel tripod now for several months and can attest to the high quality, smoothness and overall excellent value that this ball head represents.
Sony 200-600mm f/5.6-6.3 G Lens - A SUPER lens with excellent zoom range and great telephoto reach. Internal zoom means it doesn't change physical size when zooming. Incredible autofocus speed and VERY sharp at all focal lengths. Has OSS (Optical Steady Shot) built into it for sharp shots while hand holding. Easy to hand hold and this lens has VERY handy focus (or whatever function you choose) buttons on the lens barrel itself. I am currently using this lens for ALL my wildlife photography. See a gallery of images which showcase just how sharp this lens is HERE. I did replace the Sony tripod foot that came with the lens with this one from iShoot. The iShoot foot is beautifully made, Arca-Swiss compatible and costs 4X LESS than the "name brand" replacement feet from other companies.
Tamron 150-600mm G2 Lens - For many years it was my only wildlife lens. I pair it with my Canon 5D IV body. I had the first generation when it initially came out in 2013 and now I have the G2 (second Generation) and like them both. Used for most of the wildlife images shown throughout this website except for the more recent Sony camera galleries. The zoom range is priceless. Can be handheld and the vibration compensation (VC) feature is great for sharp shots while hand holding.
Tamron 28-300mm Lens - My go-to lens for travel and general photography. The range covers 90% of my needs and I rarely change lenses from this one unless doing something specific such as wildlife, macro, or really wide-angle scenics.
Canon 17-40mm Lens - Nature and travel photographers DO NOT need f/2.8 lenses (unless you are a night photographer, in which case see the Tamron lens listed below). We stop down our apertures to f/8 or f/11, f/16 for needed depth of field anyway, so why buy and carry those heavy and expensive f/2.8 lenses? This lens has a maximum aperture of f/4 and it is more than adequate. Smaller size and lighter weight than an equivalent f/2.8 lens make this one easy to carry.
Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8 Lens - It's heavy and I can't attach filters but when I need something REALLY wide or for night shots, this lens fits the bill. Super-Duper sharp, though I must admit that due to its size and heavy weight I do not bring this lens when flying to far-off destinations.
Canon 100mm Macro Lens - In my opinion the easiest to use and best overall size and focal length for dedicated macro work. Focuses to 1:1 lifesize. I have the older version which is still available, though Canon does now sell an upgraded version with built-in Image Stabilization (IS).
4th Generation Designs Multifunction Companion - Instead of using a full Gimball head, many people use a 'Wimberley Sidekick' for attaching their long wildlife lens to their ballhead. I use this product instead. It is cheaper, lighter and better. Also functions as a good macro slider. Please don't judge this product by the photo on the 4th GD website - I have no idea what they are trying to show there.
You need a camera plate to attach your camera or lens to your ballhead. The Arca-Swiss system is the industry standard and is the plate system I use and the only one I recommend. If you're struggling with another type of plate system, do yourself a favor and get Arca-Swiss. You won't struggle any more. When you want your camera or lens attached to your ballhead/tripod it will be smooth, solid and completely secure with this system.
No-Name Brand Universal L-Bracket - I got very tired of spending upwards of $150-$200 for another custom Arca-Swiss L-Bracket every time I purchased a new camera body. This one is universal. It is made of high-quality machined aluminum like the more expensive ones. It has the openings to the camera chord connections on the side and can be taken apart at the 'elbow' if needed. It fits all DSLR's and best of all, costs less than $20. Excellent product and highly recommended.
Canon Photo Backpack 200EG - Excellent pack which holds 2 camera bodies, 3 smaller lenses plus my 200-600mm or 150-600mm wildlife lens. Extra pockets and spaces for ALL my accessories, batteries, filters, etc. Don't be fooled by the small size and cheap price, this is a PERFECT camera backpack. I use this backpack when flying, driving to a photo destination and when I need good protection for my gear from bumps etc. However I normally DO NOT walk around with this backpack (simply because I now travel into the field as light as possible). When walking to a photo site I put whichever camera and lens I plan to use into my (non-photography) Osprey Daylite backpack. This is a small, lightweight pack. It doesn't offer padding so I pack my gear around a sweatshirt or hat. The Osprey Daylite is an excellent daypack and highly recommended as well as the Canon 200EG.
Black-Rapid Type Camera Strap System - When I put on my long wildlife lens and plan to walk around with that camera/lens combo, I use this strap system. I screw the round 'tripod-mount' type eyelet into one of the tripod sockets on the tripod foot of my Sony 200-600mm lens or my Tamron 150-600mm G2 lens and the wide strap goes over my shoulder and neck. Very comfortable to walk all day with, and easy and quick to bring up to eye-level for shooting. I can leave the eyelet on the lens and still use my tripod when needed.
Filters - The only filters I ever put in front of any of my lenses (and of course only when needed) are a polarizer, a graduated neutral density filter, and a variable neutral density filter. I DO NOT use or recommend that you use "lens protection", UV, or haze filters. These cheap pieces of glass degrade images and are unnecessary. I use a lens cap to protect my lenses when not actually photographing. Stop giving the camera store an extra $15-$25 every time you buy a lens. Don't let them tell you that you NEED a UV filter - you don't.
Sony A9II Camera Body - Hands-down THE BEST fast action camera I've ever had the pleasure to own and use. This thing rocks when it comes to birds in flight (BIF), fast action, moving subjects and quick wildlife of any type. Don't believe me? CLICK HERE to see a recent gallery of kick-ass action shots. This Sony camera can shoot at 20 frames per second (FPS) and when following fast action almost EVERY SHOT will be sharp! For me, as a professional photographer who loves chasing the action this thing is a beast and a super fun tool to use in the field. Love, love, love it!
Sony a6600 Mirrorless Camera Body - An APS-C sensor-size camera. Great for high-action photography. 11 frames per second and incredibly fast and accurate autofocus which almost keeps up with the Sony A9II. I am currently using either this camera or the A9II and the Sony 200-600mm lens for ALL of my wildlife photography. Gallery of fast-action images HERE. Gallery of static images HERE. This camera is smaller and less comfortable in my hands than DSLR's and I have to grip it differently from how I grip my DSLR cameras. All Sony cameras are very customizable but no more difficult to set up once you get into it than any other camera. High ISO (above 1000) images have quite a bit of noise but this can always be dealt with in post processing.
Canon 6D Body - My first foray into full-frame cameras, which I purchased in 2014 after using 3 generations of Canon 'cropped sensor' bodies. Don't know what took me so long to try a full-frame camera. The difference between APS-C and full-frame is significant. Low light and cropping ability is outstanding. A nice back-up travel and scenery camera for me, though overall it's very slow for wildlife shooting, and of course you lose the extended reach of the crop sensor (i.e. a 150-600mm lens gives the equivalent of 225-900mm when used on a crop sensor camera body).
Oben CT-2391 Tripod - Lightweight carbon fiber yet super strong. Tall enough for my 6'4" height. Has EVERY feature a pro needs and nothing more. Great tripod. Update late 2017- has been replaced with CT-2491 (4 leg sections instead of 3).
Mefoto Roadtrip Aluminum Tripod - For when I travel overseas and need something smaller than my Oben. Adequate but not overly sturdy or tall. Decent for holding smaller lenses. I take off the ballhead that this tripod comes with and put on my LeoPhoto LH-40 ballhead (see below).
Really Right Stuff BH-40 Ball Head - The best that money can buy. Under a pound in weight yet super strong. Holds even my largest wildlife lens. I got mine with the screw-knob because I think the lever-knob could eventually become one point of weakness.
LEOFOTO LH-40 Ball Head - This is a great alternative to the RRS ball head listed above, but at less than half the price. I've used mine on my travel tripod now for several months and can attest to the high quality, smoothness and overall excellent value that this ball head represents.
Sony 200-600mm f/5.6-6.3 G Lens - A SUPER lens with excellent zoom range and great telephoto reach. Internal zoom means it doesn't change physical size when zooming. Incredible autofocus speed and VERY sharp at all focal lengths. Has OSS (Optical Steady Shot) built into it for sharp shots while hand holding. Easy to hand hold and this lens has VERY handy focus (or whatever function you choose) buttons on the lens barrel itself. I am currently using this lens for ALL my wildlife photography. See a gallery of images which showcase just how sharp this lens is HERE. I did replace the Sony tripod foot that came with the lens with this one from iShoot. The iShoot foot is beautifully made, Arca-Swiss compatible and costs 4X LESS than the "name brand" replacement feet from other companies.
Tamron 150-600mm G2 Lens - For many years it was my only wildlife lens. I pair it with my Canon 5D IV body. I had the first generation when it initially came out in 2013 and now I have the G2 (second Generation) and like them both. Used for most of the wildlife images shown throughout this website except for the more recent Sony camera galleries. The zoom range is priceless. Can be handheld and the vibration compensation (VC) feature is great for sharp shots while hand holding.
Tamron 28-300mm Lens - My go-to lens for travel and general photography. The range covers 90% of my needs and I rarely change lenses from this one unless doing something specific such as wildlife, macro, or really wide-angle scenics.
Canon 17-40mm Lens - Nature and travel photographers DO NOT need f/2.8 lenses (unless you are a night photographer, in which case see the Tamron lens listed below). We stop down our apertures to f/8 or f/11, f/16 for needed depth of field anyway, so why buy and carry those heavy and expensive f/2.8 lenses? This lens has a maximum aperture of f/4 and it is more than adequate. Smaller size and lighter weight than an equivalent f/2.8 lens make this one easy to carry.
Tamron 15-30mm f/2.8 Lens - It's heavy and I can't attach filters but when I need something REALLY wide or for night shots, this lens fits the bill. Super-Duper sharp, though I must admit that due to its size and heavy weight I do not bring this lens when flying to far-off destinations.
Canon 100mm Macro Lens - In my opinion the easiest to use and best overall size and focal length for dedicated macro work. Focuses to 1:1 lifesize. I have the older version which is still available, though Canon does now sell an upgraded version with built-in Image Stabilization (IS).
4th Generation Designs Multifunction Companion - Instead of using a full Gimball head, many people use a 'Wimberley Sidekick' for attaching their long wildlife lens to their ballhead. I use this product instead. It is cheaper, lighter and better. Also functions as a good macro slider. Please don't judge this product by the photo on the 4th GD website - I have no idea what they are trying to show there.
You need a camera plate to attach your camera or lens to your ballhead. The Arca-Swiss system is the industry standard and is the plate system I use and the only one I recommend. If you're struggling with another type of plate system, do yourself a favor and get Arca-Swiss. You won't struggle any more. When you want your camera or lens attached to your ballhead/tripod it will be smooth, solid and completely secure with this system.
No-Name Brand Universal L-Bracket - I got very tired of spending upwards of $150-$200 for another custom Arca-Swiss L-Bracket every time I purchased a new camera body. This one is universal. It is made of high-quality machined aluminum like the more expensive ones. It has the openings to the camera chord connections on the side and can be taken apart at the 'elbow' if needed. It fits all DSLR's and best of all, costs less than $20. Excellent product and highly recommended.
Canon Photo Backpack 200EG - Excellent pack which holds 2 camera bodies, 3 smaller lenses plus my 200-600mm or 150-600mm wildlife lens. Extra pockets and spaces for ALL my accessories, batteries, filters, etc. Don't be fooled by the small size and cheap price, this is a PERFECT camera backpack. I use this backpack when flying, driving to a photo destination and when I need good protection for my gear from bumps etc. However I normally DO NOT walk around with this backpack (simply because I now travel into the field as light as possible). When walking to a photo site I put whichever camera and lens I plan to use into my (non-photography) Osprey Daylite backpack. This is a small, lightweight pack. It doesn't offer padding so I pack my gear around a sweatshirt or hat. The Osprey Daylite is an excellent daypack and highly recommended as well as the Canon 200EG.
Black-Rapid Type Camera Strap System - When I put on my long wildlife lens and plan to walk around with that camera/lens combo, I use this strap system. I screw the round 'tripod-mount' type eyelet into one of the tripod sockets on the tripod foot of my Sony 200-600mm lens or my Tamron 150-600mm G2 lens and the wide strap goes over my shoulder and neck. Very comfortable to walk all day with, and easy and quick to bring up to eye-level for shooting. I can leave the eyelet on the lens and still use my tripod when needed.
Filters - The only filters I ever put in front of any of my lenses (and of course only when needed) are a polarizer, a graduated neutral density filter, and a variable neutral density filter. I DO NOT use or recommend that you use "lens protection", UV, or haze filters. These cheap pieces of glass degrade images and are unnecessary. I use a lens cap to protect my lenses when not actually photographing. Stop giving the camera store an extra $15-$25 every time you buy a lens. Don't let them tell you that you NEED a UV filter - you don't.